There's something to be said for hip, new and trendy; and there's something to be said for an institution that maintains its high standards. That was the case recently when we spent a luxurious evening at the Oak Room – no one is hurried here – starting with a martini in the front room, with a jazz pianist playing. We entered the main room and had a sumptuous meal – steak, au gratin potatoes and spinach for me, swordfish and lobster ravioli for my fiance and we both were in heaven. The 30-foot high ceilings, Waterford chadaliers, the architecture, the ambience. All a world away from the chilly one we left in Copley Square.